If there’s any one constant in the world of restaurants and breweries, it’s uncertainty. Concepts shutter without warning, beloved spots vanish overnight, and the spaces they once occupied become revolving doors of cruel economic reality intermingled with ambition. In Minneapolis’s North Loop, few addresses know this truth more intimately than 618 N 5th Street, where the brief, idealistic experiment of ONE Fermentary & Taproom opened in November 2019 with a mission of fostering inclusivity in craft beer culture – and a truly unique concept of beer making – only to close indefinitely by July 2020. The space has since found new purpose under StormKing Brewpub & Barbecue—itself a survivor in a neighborhood where even established names, and neighbors, like Number 12 Cider have succumbed.
The transition represents more than just a change of concept or tenant; it’s a study in resilience and reinvention. StormKing is no stranger to evolution, having originally launched in 2017 as a takeout barbecue operation on the back side of Black Sheep’s Nicollet location—both venues also now shuttered—earning accolades for its Texas-inspired fare before economic realities forced its closure within a year. Now, in its brewpub incarnation since 2021, StormKing has found a more sustainable rhythm, blending house-brewed beers with barbecue in a space that has learned the hard lessons of its predecessors.
On a recent evening, we ventured into this corner of the North Loop, nestled amongst Downtown’s towering skyline and the bright glow of Target Field, to see how StormKing has carved out its place in Minneapolis’s ever-evolving dining landscape.
A Space Shaped by Experience
Walking into StormKing, you’re immediately aware of its North Loop DNA—the space retains that quintessential warehouse aesthetic of exposed brick and industrial bones, though it’s been softened by thoughtful touches that distinguish it from some of the neighborhood’s perhaps more clinical offerings.
The space retains that quintessential warehouse aesthetic of exposed brick and industrial bones, though it’s been softened by thoughtful touches that distinguish it from some of the neighborhood’s perhaps more clinical offerings.
The interior strikes a surprisingly sophisticated balance for a brewpub. Where the stainless-steel bar top might feel cold and utilitarian, it’s warmed by the glow of Edison bulbs and strategic string lighting that creates an almost date-night ambiance. A running fireplace adds a particularly nice touch on dreary evenings, casting a golden warmth that transforms what could be an industrial cavern into something genuinely cozy. The music plays at conversational volume—a small but appreciated touch that allows for actual dialogue rather than the shouting matches common at many establishments, North Loop and elsewhere included.
On our visit, the taproom hosted a respectable crowd of 15-20 patrons, which the staff described as busy by their standards—a telling admission about the challenges facing even well-established venues in this competitive market. Yet there’s something endearing about StormKing’s quieter rhythm, a sense that it’s found its groove as a neighborhood spot rather than chasing the frenzied energy that often burns fast and bright.
The Kitchen’s Mixed Messages
With our bartender offering refreshingly honest guidance toward their most iconic dishes, guidance that steered us surprisingly away from stereotypical barbecue joint favorites like smoked brisket, we embarked on a journey that would prove as uneven as the brewpub’s own path to stability. The presentation throughout remained decidedly no-frills—wax paper-lined boats and simple plates that telegraph a stereotypical “barbecue joint” rather than a culinary destination seeking their stars.
The Texas Twinkies arrived looking like they’d lost a fight with the smoker. Described on the menu as smoked jalapeños stuffed with cream cheese and chopped brisket, then wrapped in bacon, they represented everything that can go wrong when ambition exceeds execution. The bacon, charred beyond redemption, fell away in soft, rubbery strips that added neither flavor nor texture. The filling itself was a congealed mess of brisket and cream cheese that lacked the bright acidity and tang that make jalapeño poppers work.
The bacon, charred beyond redemption, fell away in soft, rubbery strips that added neither flavor nor texture.
These desperately needed an acidic counterpoint—perhaps a lime aioli or fresh herbs—to cut through their richness. As it stood, they were objectively ugly, lacking any textural component and were functionally pointless and had us longing for a more traditional, even if uninspired, approach that didn’t involve the overly used strategy of wrapping everything in bacon. It’s 2025, and it’s high time that we move on from this trend of bacon everything, everywhere. There is potential for this dish to be a winner, but it will require some reworking and balancing.
The Whole Smoked Chicken Wings admittedly told a more frustrating story: that of potential squandered. Served as full wings with substantial heft that felt like genuine value, they were cooked to technical perfection. The meat was moist and tender, the skin properly crisped from a post-smoking deep fryer bath. Yet for all their textural success, they were surprisingly light in flavor. The dry rub barely registered beyond salt and pepper, leaving a natural, unseasoned chicken flavor to carry a dish that needed much more support. A more robust spice blend or even a post-frying toss in that same seasoning would have elevated these to a more memorable status. I will go on record as saying that I prefer a dry rubbed wing as opposed to a sauced wing, and if these simply had some actual seasoning on them these would be worth getting every time.
The Royal Burger, however, proved that when StormKing gets it right, they really get it right. Described by our server as their take on an In-N-Out burger, this double smash patty creation was a beautifully done exercise in balance and restraint. The beef, properly fatty and caramelized from the flat-top, possessed that distinctive lacy crust that defines great smash burgers – and that so many local attempts miss.
It was ironic that the best dish at a barbecue-focused brewpub wasn’t smoked at all, but sometimes simplicity executed with care trumps complexity done poorly.
More importantly, it avoided the overly greasy, over-salted trap that also ensnares so many celebrated burger joints. The soft, yeasty bun provided the perfect foundation, while American cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickle, and quintessential “special sauce” created a perfect and delicious harmony. It was ironic that the best dish at a barbecue-focused brewpub wasn’t smoked at all, but sometimes simplicity executed with care trumps complexity done poorly.
The Verdict: Steady, If Uneven
StormKing Brewpub & Barbecue occupies an interesting niche in Minneapolis’s dining landscape—it’s neither destination-worthy nor forgettable, neither groundbreaking nor derivative. In a space that has seen ambitious concepts flame out spectacularly, there’s something to be said for StormKing’s modest consistency. The service has remained genuinely friendly and welcoming since day one, the ambiance strikes the right notes for casual conversation, and the beer program, while not revolutionary, provides a solid and enjoyable accompaniment to the meal.
In a space that has seen ambitious concepts flame out spectacularly, there’s something to be said for StormKing’s modest consistency.
The food tells a tale of a kitchen still finding its identity. Over multiple visits, the barbecue items have shown a troubling consistency—meats that arrive warm at best, often lacking the bold flavors and careful seasoning that separate memorable barbecue from mere sustenance. Yet there are bright spots: the pulled pork sandwich manages to deliver the flavor and satisfaction that other smoked offerings miss, the cheese curds arrive with the quintessential squeak and delectable pull, and the slider flight lets you enjoy a trio of sandwich options that won’t disappoint, proving the kitchen is capable when everything aligns. And that burger—simple, well-executed, satisfying—suggests that when the kitchen focuses on fundamentals rather than flair, good things happen. For a neighborhood that has watched concepts come and go with frustrating frequency, perhaps StormKing’s greatest achievement is simply still being here, serving decent food in a comfortable space to a loyal if modest clientele. In an industry defined by uncertainty, that kind of quiet persistence has its own value. Just order the burger.
In an industry defined by uncertainty, that kind of quiet persistence has its own value. Just order the burger.
