The late summer air in Minneapolis carries a certain weight, a cool humidity that hints at the season’s slow surrender to red and orange-hued leaves and crisp evenings in which you can see your breath float away in a soft cloud. On such a night, the pull towards a familiar comfort is strong, and few places in the Standish-Ericsson neighborhood offer that embrace quite like Northbound Smokehouse and Brewpub. Stepping inside is akin to a warm homecoming. The aroma of smoked meats hangs gently in the air, mingling with the low hum of conversation and the clinking of glasses. Baseball flickers on the TVs above the bustling bar, a comforting backdrop to the lively scene unfolding around us. Outside, the patio is a tapestry of laughter and relaxed chatter, a testament to not only the neighborhood’s affection for this local haunt, but also those from all over the metro area.
Our plan for the evening? To delve into one of Northbound’s latest offerings: the Standish Lager, an American Lager promising “a hint of sweetness and subtle fruitiness.” With a modest 4.8% ABV and 8 IBUs, it seemed the perfect companion for a laid-back exploration of a familiar style. What followed was less a groundbreaking revelation and more a deeply satisfying affirmation of what a well-crafted, approachable lager can be.
The first impression, as my companion aptly noted, is its sheer beauty. Poured into the glass, the Standish Lager gleams with an almost startling clarity, a brilliant straw-yellow that wouldn’t look out of place in any advertisement for a classic American beer. It’s utterly transparent, the kind of pristine look that speaks to meticulous brewing, and in a space without the ability to filter their beers is a shining example of the skills with which these brewers create their beers. Initially, a fleeting white head graced the surface, clean and crisp, before gently receding, leaving behind a delicate lacing. In its visual simplicity, it evokes the iconic macro lagers we all know, but with a noticeable refinement, a polished gleam.
Bringing the glass to the nose, the aroma is equally inviting. It’s clean and subtly sweet, a whisper of honey that feels rich without being cloying. There’s a faint yeastiness, a grounding note that speaks to its handcrafted nature. My companion detected a distinct honeyed character, almost syrupy, while I found myself drawn to a subtle bready note, like untoasted white bread – a delicate sweetness from the grain. As the initial aroma settled, a faint floral hint emerged, a grassy nuance that added a touch of complexity. Interestingly, as the lingering scent of the smokehouse (a pleasant but sometimes domineering aroma here) momentarily subsided, a delicate melon note, reminiscent of fresh honeydew, surfaced as a fleetingly surprising yet welcome addition.
The first sip is where the Standish Lager truly distinguishes itself. While its appearance might suggest a featherlight body, it possesses a surprising substance, a touch more weight than anticipated. It’s still undoubtedly refreshing, the kind of beer that slides down with ease, but there’s a noticeable presence on the palate. The effervescence is lively, though a touch more could elevate its crispness further. This is, however, a minor point and likely a matter of personal preference; we both tend to favor highly carbonated beers, but that preference doesn’t negate this lager’s exceptional quality.
The flavor profile leans into a clean malt character, reminiscent of quality two-row barley. There’s a distinct graininess, an honest beer flavor that avoids the sometimes-adjunct-driven character of its macro brethren. What’s particularly noteworthy is the absence of any harsh bitterness, a quality that sometimes makes more appearances in local, similar offerings, perhaps unwelcomely. The promised sweetness is there, a gentle undercurrent that contributes to its easy drinkability. However, this is where we found ourselves in a familiar reviewer’s quandary: the pursuit of perfection versus the appreciation of intent.
My companion astutely pointed out that the beer’s sweetness suggested a character that could be construed as slightly under-attenuated, leaving a touch of residual malt character. I concurred. While not off-putting in any way – in fact, it contributes to its approachable, almost nostalgic character, echoing the slight sweetness found in beers like Coors Banquet, a comparison we returned to repeatedly – a touch more dryness might have sharpened its edges, lending it an even cleaner finish. Yet, we both acknowledged that this very characteristic is likely intentional, perhaps a nod to the familiar profiles that comfort so many, and again, done with an expert hand.
And this is where the true appreciation for Standish Lager comes into focus. It’s not trying to be a hop bomb, nor is it striving for esoteric complexity. It is, quite simply, a damn good American Lager. It’s the kind of beer that bridges the gap, appealing to both the casual drinker seeking refreshment and the craft beer enthusiast who appreciates a well-executed classic. As we debated minor tweaks we might make if we were brewing it ourselves (a touch more carbonation, perhaps a whisper more hop bitterness), we circled back to the central point: if the goal was to create a craft-brewed homage to the beloved American macro lager, a beer that is both familiar and noticeably better, then Northbound has unequivocally succeeded.
Indeed, we found ourselves declaring it the best beer of our evening, a surprising testament considering our previous stops this evening and the beers that had been consumed across multiple styles. In a city brimming with innovative and often assertive craft beers, there’s a genuine pleasure in encountering a beer that nails the fundamentals with such precision. It’s the kind of beer you can happily enjoy pint after pint, a reliable and satisfying choice that doesn’t fatigue the palate. When the conversation turned to a rating, the consensus was a solid four, perhaps even a nudge towards four and a quarter or half, out of five. This isn’t about groundbreaking innovation; it’s about masterful execution of a classic. The Standish Lager is a testament to the fact that sometimes, the greatest achievement is taking something familiar and elevating it with quality ingredients and skillful brewing. It’s the taste of a late summer evening at a neighborhood favorite, a comforting and expertly crafted brew that feels just right. And sometimes, that’s all you really need.
